New PC Setup Guidelines (Starting by Dumping Symantec/Norton and McAfee)

10 January 2012   PCs

You pull out that shiny new PC, and you set it up, and the manufacturer has put all sorts of junk on it.  It runs like a 386 did in 1992.  Some manufacturers are worse than others, but all put on various trial programs or programs that basically just take up space or, worse, memory.

For the number one rule, just remember: “No Syman Nor Mac”.  In other words, no Symantec, no Norton and no McAfee.  Oh, and did I mention to get rid of Norton/Symantec?

I was actually reading a sticker on a new PC today, and Norton was touting its “100% protection score”.  This was interesting to me, since there isn’t an AV in the world that is “100%” effective at anything.  It is impossible.  Malware is a moving target, as those who wish to do harm to others’ systems and/or data are constantly improving and modifying their code to stay one step ahead of security suites and AV programs.  I smelled bull, so I went home to Google some information.

It turns out that this is a test carried out by Dennis Labs.  Who are they?  Apparently, they are a third party that Symantec pays to do its tests.  Not exactly a disinterested party, if you ask me.

Leaving that aside, though, who really cares?  What good is it?  It doesn’t matter if you have 100% protection if 30% of your programs won’t work because of the crap that Norton/Symantec put out.  And yes, that turned out  to be the case of why I had to travel to a site today to put everything back to a factory restore because the brand new PC came with Norton on it.

At least McAfee, from my experience, will mostly only screw itself up.  While it isn’t always the easiest to get rid of because it will corrupt its own installation so you cannot uninstall it, when it does work, it works as well as any other AV.  However, it pains me to see people pay for protection that isn’t better than the free stuff and is likely to screw a lot of stuff up when they renew their subscription and move to the next version.  Even then, that is limited damage.  In short, I don’t recommend McAfee simply because it is stupid, but at least it isn’t evil.

Norton/Symantec is another animal, however.  Getting rid of it is similar to removing a virus.  It gets its tentacles into everything.  Instead of a clean uninstall, it secretly leaves all sorts of junk behind just waiting to bite you.  It slows down your system.  It makes programs crash, often with weird unexplainable error messages (because the application has no idea of what could be wrong).  It keeps you from doing what you want to do in many cases.  Frankly, it should be listed as malware itself rather than something to protect you.  If selling bad software were a crime, then Symantec would be doing hard time.

Not that these are the only two, as CA Internet Security Suite certainly should get a dishonorable mention as well.  It’s so bad that it requires the removal of the ever-so-excellent Malwarebyte’s Anti-Malware in order to install.  I suspect it is because it doesn’t want MBAM around to show how bad their stuff really is.  The good news is that I haven’t, at least not yet, seen it come preinstalled on a computer.

Initial Setup and Removing Crap

So, when you get that new PC, fire it up and go through the usual blah-blah-blah, register it, etc.  I recommend registering with the manufacturer if you have a warranty, implied or not, since it will be easier for them to service you if you do wind up with a problem.

The first thing I like to do is setup my desktop icons, as I like having My Documents/my personal folder, Computer and Network icons all on the desktop.

On Windows XP, these icons are normally there in XP Home but not necessarily in XP Professional.  Simply right-click on an open spot on the desktop, and then click on Properties on the context menu.  Click on the Desktop tab, then click on Customize Desktop.  Under the Desktop icons, make sure there are check boxes in the ones you want to see.

On Windows Vista and Windows 7, these don’t show by default.  Right-click on an empty spot on the desktop and click on Personalize.  Now, select Change desktop icons on the left-hand pane and put checkmarks in the boxes by the ones you want to see.

After you get to your desktop, remove any security suite stuff that came with your PC.  Even if you want to keep that particular version, you really need to remove it until you are finished with the initial setup of your machine.  There are two ways to do this.  The first method is to download specialized programs to remove the appropriate it (you will have to figure out if it is an “Internet Suite” or “360” or simply an antivirus):

However, my preferred method is to use Revo Uninstaller, which should work for most programs.  If you have a 64 bit system, you will need Revo Uninstaller Pro, but the nice thing is that you can download a fully functional trial version of it (if it works, you might want to consider keeping it for other troublesome programs).  Be sure to follow the directions and don’t reboot until Revo Uninstaller has done its job, or it won’t be able to clean up after the standard uninstall has completed.

One nice thing about using Revo Uninstaller is that you can also thoroughly remove any other junk that came with your machine:  Shop2Win, MyWebSearch (aka “MyWay Searchbar”), Norton Online Backup (they’re everywhere!), various Internet Service Provider offers, Ask toolbar, or anything that is obvious marketing/trialware.

In addition, you might want to try The PC Decrapifier program that is specially designed for new computers.  It gives a quick list of items to run normal uninstalls (which is why you want to use this after Revo Uninstaller to get rid of the gunk that came with your computer.  Use these on the less troublesome but commonly installed programs.  Be careful, though, as it cannot tell the difference between trial versions of software and wanted preinstalled versions.

Once you have removed the security suite, reboot and then download and install CCleaner.  Do not allow it to install Yahoo or anything additional.  Run the normal cleanup routine.  This is one of the few times I recommend following up with cleaning the registry.  Normally, I advise against it, but this is one of two times I’m most likely to (the other being after a virus attack, and then it is sort of a hail Mary pass if absolutely nothing else works).  Why do it?  To make absolutely sure you have really gotten rid of any internet security junk.  Be sure to save a backup of the registry when asked and remember where you saved it!

Reboot to clear out memory and all.

What’s In a (Workgroup) Name?

One thing most home users are not aware of is that home PCs normally are automatically assigned to networking “workgroups”.  Normally, the default workgroup is simply “WORKGROUP”.  However, some manufacturers seem to be in the habit of making the default workgroup “MSHOME”.  The problem doesn’t show up until you try to network two or more computers together and share anything.  All of a sudden, it becomes obvious that the computers cannot see one another.

It may sound like a real pain, but working this out before you need that second computer is well worth the effort and save you time later (because if you don’t do it now, you’ll be doubling much of this work).  Be sure to write down any information you might need when you do get that second computer so you have it ready when you go through this again.

First, decide upon a workgroup name and stick to it.  It is recommended to keep it eight characters or shorter to make sure no problems arise from the name itself.  What the name is isn’t all that important, but some special characters are not allowed.  The directions for changing it varies somewhat between different versions of Windows:

If you change the workgroup name, you’ll need to reboot before doing anything else.

Second, you will need the same username and password on each machine in order to share resources.  Again, sometimes manufacturers make up names like “Owner” or leave the default Administrator account as the main login, all of which can make it challenging when they aren’t the same.

Again, the process is a little different between Windows versions:

Security Patches – Prime the Pump

First off, if Windows is not yet activated, then now is the time! XP won’t do very many updates without it, and even Vista and 7 will likely not do much until you activate Windows. Assuming you have an Internet connection, on Windows XP, click on Start | All Programs | Accessories | System Tools | Activate Windows. On Windows Vista/7, click on the Start button, then right-click on Computer and choose Properties. Next, click on Activate Windows now.

When you went through the initial setup, it probably asked you about security settings.  Hopefully, you chose “Use the recommended settings” on a desktop unit.  This will download and install Windows updates automatically.  Even if this needs to be changed later, this is a good place to start so you get all the updates you can as fast as you can.

However, the default setting is to not check until 3:00 am.  And, depending upon what version of Windows you are running and the patch level, you might have to answer some questions even on the very first one.  So, it helps to prime the pump and get the updates started before something goes wrong.  Note that I am recommending you begin patching Windows even before putting on antivirus software.  This is important because some antivirus software might be dependent upon certain Windows patches being there to install and work correctly!

So, click on Start | All Programs | Windows Update.  If the updater itself needs to be updated (which is most likely if XP of any flavor), then you’ll only have one or two updates, but they are very important ones required for any future updates!  If it is Windows XP, you might have over 100 updates.  Even an unpatched Vista installation can have around 80 updates, so keep doing updates until you have a substantial number at least.

Install Manufacturer Updates

Once the pump is primed and several updates are out of the way, it is time to check for updates for your particular PC.  Usually, the best way to do this is from the manufacturer’s website.

HP and Dell are pretty good about providing assistant programs that will do checks for updates for drivers and preloaded software for you.  Official support sites can often detect the type of computer you are using (Internet Explorer suggested for this).  Searching on Google works in a lot of case, but be sure it is an official site!  So, it helps to know some of the driver support sites out there:

Some key notes on upgrading from a manufacturer’s site:

Some recommend updating drivers even when not necessarily needed, others recommend only updating drivers if there is a problem.  On a new PC, I recommend getting the latest drivers.  There are reasons for updates, and only rarely do new drivers cause issues, while it is usually a given that older drivers have at least one issue that required the update to begin with.

One exception to the above rule is BIOS updates.  These aren’t really drivers, and a bad BIOS update can make your computer a nice doorstop, while true drivers can normally be recovered with a simple Windows System Restore.  Read what the update does first and determine if you really need it first.  When in doubt, don’t.  You can always update it later.

If you are going to use the manufacturer assistance programs, such as Dell Quickset or HP Advisor, make sure they are updated as well.  Often the reason these quit working is because the website address changes, and keeping these up to date ensures this isn’t a problem.

Be aware that sometimes Windows Updates and manufacturer driver updates can clash.  When in doubt, the best bet usually is to go for the manufacturer version.  There are some odd situations with NVIDIA or SigmaTel drivers that might be the exception, but these are rare.  ATI drivers in particular can be quite touchy if you go with the Windows Update version.

After updating manufacturer utilities and drivers, no doubt you’ll need to reboot.

Install/Update Software

Now is the time to install any additional software you need.  There are many free applications that you need to consider: Firefox/Safari/Chrome, iTunes, Adobe Reader, Adobe Flash, Java, Silverlight and Malwarebyte’s Anti-Malware are all pretty standard apps.  Of the browsers, I suggest you select at least one in case something happens to take out Internet Explorer.

The nice thing about the above list is that you can select and download and install all of them without a lot of reading, clicking and avoiding putting more junk on your PC by installing them and many others through Ninite.

If not done already, installing printer drivers and scanning/faxing software would be appropriate now.  Any other devices, such as USB wi-fi sticks, wireless keyboard and mice should be installed.  If it is a home theater PC (HTPC), install TotalMedia, WinTV, Boxee, Windows Live Movie Maker, DVD Flick or other multimedia application.

If you need to install and configure Microsoft Office, this would be an appropriate time to do so.  If you do not want to pay for MS Office and don’t have MS Works, then consider installing the free alternative OpenOffice also available on Ninite (requires Java to be installed first).

In addition, install any major piece of software, to include but limited to: Adobe Photoshop, MS Project, QuckBooks, Quicken, Picasa, sound and video editing software, MS Expression, MS Publisher, Lotus Notes, any database driven program (CareWorks, SalesForce, Mitchell RepairCenter, etc.) and any program requiring Internet connectivity (aka “cloud computing”).

Finally, don’t forget about utilities like Acronis TrueImage, EASUS Data Recovery, VMWare, VirtualCD, VNC, etc.

I cannot stress enough to install these programs before you put on any antivirus or Internet security package.  Many packages, such as Kaspersky, will scan applications already installed and make exceptions as it installs rather than potentially interfering with the install after the fact.

Update, Update, Update

Run Windows Update multiple times until exhausted.  Don’t forget to check to be sure Windows Updates is set to update MS Office, if installed, as well.

Backup, Backup, Backup

Now is a good time to stop and create a rescue disk and backup your computer.  Most likely, your manufacturer has provided a means to start out this process.  Also, the Microsoft method varies greatly in details between Windows XP and Vista/7.  If your operating system permits it, doing a scheduled backup takes the stress off of you for remembering to do it regularly.

Select and Install Antivirus Application

Finally, now you can select and install an antivirus or security package.  I’m not real big on “Internet security suites”.  Most of them overtake the Windows firewall, which can cause issues, and they try to do much more than what most people really need.  These suites can cause headaches for virtual private networking (VPN) or remote control packages (LogMeIn, VNC, GoToAssist, etc.).  In addition, on low end machines, it can have a noticeable drag on the computer’s performance.  However, if you have a need for real security, such as those working in the financial sector, then this might be an acceptable trade-off.

So, how to decide?  First and foremost, don’t buy those packages shown on late night TV.  They are unproven, and they are often the target of consumer complaints when some of them charge people over $200 to fix what their software did not catch.  Some of them are snake oil, and their true purpose is to get you to pay additional for remote support.

Second, visit AV Tests and/or AV Comparatives (the former is easier to understand, but the latter tells you more about the product).  If it is not listed on these sites, do not buy it for your main protection.  Look through the test results and attempt to balance performance/usability against protection.  Detection is of obvious importance, but also AV Comparatives rates things like removal (what good is it if you can detect it but not remove it?) and false positives (you don’t want it crying wolf so much you begin to ignore it).

Also, don’t ignore price and don’t ignore how you use your PC.  You might want higher protection even if there’s an impact on performance if you are constantly on the web, deal with people’s personal information or even if you’re at home visiting risky websites.  However, if mostly use Word, read email and don’t do online banking, then price becomes more important than many other considerations.  Don’t forget that some reputable products offer a free for home personal use license.

Lastly, consider using a secondary protection as well.  You want one that is not running all the time (“memory resident”), as having two running all the time will slow the machine down and cause conflicts.  Rather, you need one that either runs “on demand” (you have to start it up) or one that runs a scheduled scan (preferably when you aren’t using it).  Malwarebyte’s Anti-Malware is an excellent free for home use antivirus program that runs on demand.  However, since it is on demand, you have to remember to run it.  Alternatively, for $19.99, you can use Hitman Pro, which will scan your machine once per day upon startup.  The advantage is that you don’t have to remember to do the scans.  However, this isn’t much better if you leave your computer on all the time.

After you install your antivirus/security software, you should run a scan.  Many of these solutions require an initial scan to build up a database of the files on your system, which makes future scans go faster.  In addition, you would be surprised how much spyware/adware is installed on your machine by the manufacturer.

Hopefully, this guide will get you started off correctly and with minimal problems.  Enjoy your shiny new toy!